

During my search for the best Man2oushe in Beirut, the name Ghattas kept popping out. Many have asked me if the Ghattas of Gemmayze is the same as the one that sells mini Lebanese bites. Wondering who this other Ghattas is and what the little bites are all about – of course I was intrigued.
I found out that Ghattas is located in Achrafieh, just a few meters away from Tabaris and the SNA roundabout. It has been known for the last couple of decades for their unique bites all Lebanese crave for: Pizza, manakish, cheese, pizza, kebbe, Fatayer and more all in small sizes, prepared with the utmost perfection.
To my happy surprise, I received a box of mini bites from Ghattas and I think I have found one of the tastiest Spinach Fatayer available in Lebanon.
Inside a beautiful blue box with the Ghattas’s name on, a number of triangular creations are just waiting to be eaten. I grabbed one and started feeling the details. A golden pyramid of 7 centimeters in diameter constituted of short crust pastry dough and filled with cooked spinach. Crusty and crunchy like that of a sablé dough followed by a soft and tender inner filling, the bite is simply addictive. You will discover a light taste with crunchy borders of unique dough.
Fatayer or Fitiir is an Arab meat pie pastry that can alternatively be stuffed with spinach (sabaneq), or cheese (jibnah). It is part of Arab cuisine and is eaten in Kuwait, Turkey, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, Lebanon, Jordan, and other Arab countries in the region.
A light flavour with a lemony after taste without the harsh acidic feel that comes from your average fatayer, passes through your palate forcing you to say: Yumm!
Bizarrely, the box has no address but simply a phone number, which I’m going to share with you. Deciding to taste these Fatayer or anything else, keep us posted with your opinion.
My journey around town continues and I am always on the look out to discover new tasty things found in different parts of our rich country. While shopping at Black Pepper in Rabieh I spotted a cylindrical transparent box of Manakish. A box? Manakish? Served cold? I knew I have stumbled on something interesting…
On the bakery counter, two boxes were just waiting to be bought. A large one for 17,000L.L and another smaller one for 8,000L.L, each filled with mouthwatering UFO-like shaped Manakish. Each box contains a dozen of these tasty appetizers. Thin like paper and richly covered with fresh Zaatar (local wild thyme), these crunchy crispy flat bread pieces are to die for.
The box: “bi Bickfaya” by Abou Roland. A nice simple “b” logo along with a sketch of a Lebanese man with his mustache and a phone number.
Calling the number (+961-3-639659), Mr. Jean Sayyah answers me with ultimate professionalism and answers each of my questions without even asking the reason. Abou Roland, who owns a shop in Bickfaya produces these Manakeesh among other things. He told me about thin Lahme Bi Aajine, other Lebanese bites as well as other breakfast items, but it has been known for this particular man2oushe, which can last up to a month in its box. This product has been brought down from the mountains to be enjoyed by the city’s connoisseurs and is now sold at Black Pepper, ABC Dbayeh, Black Pepper Rabieh and Ginette Gemmayze.
Mr. Sayyah, personally cleans the Zaatar with his own hands every morning after being hand picked from the forests of Bickfaya. This type of zaatar is nowhere to be found elsewhere.
Grab one, bite into it and feel the ultimate taste that lies behind every crunchy piece. With every crunch comes a strong and rich taste of Zaatar. Clean Zaatar, crushed in tiny small bits smaller than sand, mixed with olive oil and sesame seeds to create a soft paste that caresses your palatal mucosa. A great point to mention here: They didn’t give me a heartburn!
Enjoy them alone or with labneh, these manakish are addictive. If you are on a diet stay a hundred kilometers away from them because when you start you cannot stop until the box is totally devoured!
Is it spelled man’oushe, mankouche or manqoushe? Multiple ways of spelling for one great result: spread dough topped with specially mixed thyme, a la Libanaise, baked and served hot. However you decide to spell this piece of Lebanese culture, the end result is the same – a product which is deeply rooted in Lebanon’s history, loved and craved by children and adults alike on a daily basis…
This past weekend, I went on a venture to search for the best man’oushe, or should I say, one of the best, since man’oushe bakeries are everywhere in Lebanon, in every corner and in every neighborhood. Tasting all bakeries around Lebanon in a day would be impossible. I had to focus on one region this week (and will do the others in due time).
A 12 hour ‘man’oushe hunt’, which started at 6am on a calm Saturday morning and ended at 6pm. Together with Chef Marc Abed, my friends Shady and Elie we toured Greater Beirut area, visiting and tasting 16 places.
We tried a variety of places – the small artisan bakeries, the more modernized ones, the commercial spots… a bit of each, to help us see and feel the difference…
The process:
The Grading:
The grading was divided into two main categories. 100 points for the taste and another 100 for the overall preparation and details
The bakeries visited (Furn Manakeesh)
Na-Geo, Gemayze main street
Na-Geo is located in the heart of Gemmayze, we arrived and met with the owner, who’s brother has a bakery with the same name in Canada. A wide choice of preparations displayed on a back-lit box without the prices. Another carton displays the menu with prices. I think they change prices according to the market’s flour price.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Ghattas Bakery, Gemmayze main street
Ghattas Bakery, owned and managed by Mr. Robert Ghattas has been around for some time now. Reach the very end of Gemmayze street and you will discover a little hole in the wall with a green sign board. Inside, a couple of workers, supervised by the owner himself, are producing fine pieces of bakery. Mr. Robert, a generous and welcoming person, did everything to make our visit memorable. He offered us his signature three cheese man’oushe and a couple of mini fatayers. Telling us the story of the family business, we really enjoyed one of the best man’oushe in Beirut.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Afran Loubnan, Mar Mikhael
Afran Loubnan in Mar Mikhael is a new place to open on the strip. Owned and managed by Elie, Afran Loubnan is an average bakery where you go and eat a regular and simple piece of man’oushe. Nothing super special about it. You would have to stand out on the street to order, so preferably stay away from it on windy winter days.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Furn el Hayek, Achrafieh
A region called after this bakery! Why? Is it that special? We went to taste Furn El Hayek to get the story behind the name, with no luck. Unfortunately I was not impressed at all. Nothing special and their man’oushe is not even tasty.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Hamadeh, Hamra
Hamadeh, has been around for the past 50 years. One of the first bakeries in Hamra, Hamade offers a “close to perfection” piece of dough. A tasty, crunchy, thick man’oushe which can be described as an oriental pizza with crunchy rolled up sides. Hamadeh, located at the beginning of Hamra street, has survived this long for a reason, don’t you think?
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Ghalaiyne, Hamra
Ghalayine, Barbar’s main competitor, is one of the places that do mass production serving Hamra’s busy streets. A very wide choice of everything imaginable layered on a dough and prepared in industrial quantities. We tasted their man’oushe, the least expensive in town for only 750L.L and a chicken fajita mix.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Barbar, Hamra
Many say their man’oushe is tasty while others are scared of eating at Barbar. Scared? I didn’t see anything unusual or unhealthy to scared off, but I can assure you that it’s not tasty. Barbar is more of a factory. Production is their motto. It’s one of the least places I liked.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Abdel Aziz, Hamra
Located on the corner of a street leading to Bliss, Abdel Aziz might look cheap and dirty but believe me the owner is trying his best to provide the area with a decent upscale man’oushe. We had the chance to meet with him, where he explained about the way he prepares his dough.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Atyab Chi, Mazraa
On our way to Al Jazira bakery, we stopped in front of Atyab Chi, few meters away. Atyab Chi is fresh and new owned and managed by Rabih, a funny guy who really took care of us as we have been friends for years. He insisted on offering us three man’oushes.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Al Jazira, Mazraa
Located in Mazraa, in Jazira center, this bakery is not one of best things you want to see. I compared it to Abou Arab; where it’s better to eat without seeing. Half the shop is on the walkway with man’oushes thrown here and there just a couple of meters away from the passing cars. Enjoy a new way of eating dust and pollution. On another hand, Al Jazira has one of the best man’oushes I’ve tasted today. A must try!
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Al Balad, Cola
Leaving AL Jazira, the owner asked us to pas by Al Balad. It wasn’t one of the best advice to take. Surely not the place you want to enjoy a tasty man’oushe.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Barbar, Spears
Exactly like its little brother in Hamra, Barbar has a man’oushe that is not tasty. Dozens of employees are all working together producing hundreds of pieces of dough in a synchronized way. The manager didn’t accept that we take pictures, so we did so without his permission.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Lourdes, Badaro
Lourdes is the place that has the most “Laisser Aller” among the places visited. Phones, pens, papers and cigarettes boxes are all on the working platform. The staff goes in and out without washing their hands. Cleaning towels here and there… You really don’t want to see this place. BUT as for its man’oushe. Yummy. It’s really close to perfection.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Al Charek, Furn El Chebbak
I have never tasted worse. Nothing’s good to have around here. A dirty place, an unpleasant staff and a cold man’oushe. We asked a lot before arriving to this place. I really wanted to know the story behind “Furn EL Chebbak”. A region that has a name of a bakery. The women led us here. Shocking!
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Breakfast 2 Breakfast (B2B), Achrafieh Sassine
Now was time to move on to what is supposed to be the best. We went to B2B. With years of experience, dozens of staff members, a respect for the quality and service and a delivery army producing freshly baked good by the minute. When we arrived, the cashier had to shout:”Who’s turn is it?” Then someone came from outside, threw his cigarette and without washing his hands grabbed a previously prepared dough and threw it inside the oven. No hygiene respected, no professionalism, and the worst part not a premium taste.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Zaatar W Zeit, Sodeco Achrafieh
For the ones who were expecting to see ZWZ’s man’oushe at number one, they will be disappointment. ZWZ man’oushe is the only one out of the 16 that contains sugar. It’s sweeter than being a savory breakfast. That feel of sweetness covers other premium ingredients and negative things. It’s zaatar content is too little and the dough is thin to an extent of being transparent.
My Impressions:
The Man’oushe:
Conclusions and Discoveries:
Incident of the day:
Out of the 17 bakeries visited, yes we actually went to 17 places that day and one place didn’t welcome us. The owner didn’t let us take pictures or even try to explain what we are trying to do. An incident worth describing.
Mankouche Xpress in Achrafieh facing Hotel Alexandre was very aggressive and impolite. He shouted telling us not to take pictures. When I tried explaining to him what we are trying to do: searching for the best man’oushe and all I need is to buy one order to taste, he answered: “I’m not interested, remove the camera now”. He had something to hide that’s for sure. I definitely won’t even try eating in this dirty place…
The Final three winners:
Stay tuned, more reviews and other regions will be coming your way soon.
The open plan of the restaurant with its multi dimensional quality creates an overwhelming feeling of one being in touch with the urban environment surrounding the hotel. The Grand Mosque of Mohammad Al Amin is captured in picture-like precision from one angle and from another a captivating view of other modern high rise buildings in the neighboring area. The fresh transparency of the space at Indigo- On The Roof is demonstrated by the display, in clear view, of its exclusive wine collection. The 650 wines available are from many regions of the world, including: Italy, France, South Africa, Chile and Lebanon to name but a few.
“One should not attend even the end of the world without a good breakfast”
The reasons you should try Le Gray’s breakfast:
I was definitely impressed with Le Gray’s morning feast. I would consider this breakfast as part of my top three breakfasts at a five star hotel in Lebanon – although some minor improvements must be made…
After visiting Zaatar W Zeit Zalka with my family last week, I decided to give this place another try before drawing any conclusions. As a small recap, my last experience was unacceptable. I headed down to another branch just to see how the experience will turn out; I loved it. ZWZ is not a bakery anymore but a revisited diner – a full-fledged restaurant with new expectations. This only means that the actual problem is having an inconsistency in service and attitude between branches… Pay attention guys… don’t let such things affect the reasons why people come to you…
The last time, I decided not to give it a full review and wrote:
So, our day started at Zaatar W Zeit Zalka. I thought, well this could be a cool place to take my daughter. A place where a variety of foods that children enjoy are served. I discovered for the first time the new wide menu while dining in-house, which I enjoyed. The menu, the variety, the images on the menu, this place has become more restaurant than just a mankoushe spot. Sadly the place was not a cheerful one. It was like Christmas Scrooge passed by here recently; No music, the staff were grim and down, unwelcoming – not a smile was seen. They saw that a kid was with us, but no reaction. No one even gave her some coloring pencils until I asked for some and ended up with one that included used pencils.Afterwards was ordering time. A kid, sorry but she doesn’t even deserve the title of waitress, approached us for the order. So unpleasant and so unprofessional she was moving her head and mimicking the way spoiled kids talk with their parents. Minutes later, we received the food. I liked and enjoyed the Zaatar light with no oil as well as the turkey and cheese sandwich. On another hand the Lahme Beajine and the cheese and ham were tasteless. It’s unacceptable to serve food on chipped plates. The labneh plate is chipped from all sides like in old Lebanese restaurants.Anyway the food was not the main issue today but the bad service and unwelcoming ambiance and attitude towards kids. More so, the place was dirty. The floor is covered with breadcrumbs, hair all over the floor and dirt stuffed in the corners, then left searching for something else that will make Enya smile and maybe a coffee for us since we still didn’t have anything to drink.
I went down to their Byblos branch where I enjoyed a nice breakfast with my friend Zeina. I ordered a lot, so just imagine I was there with a bunch of friends. Breakfast on the last day of the year was nice in this stand-alone location where positive vibes seem to naturally flow in the air.
The place is superb:
We tried today:
PS: Why are the prices going up so fast that high? The halloum and bacon, for example, was for 9,000L.L just nine months ago. Are we looking for 10$/sandwich by the end of 2014? Are they planning on serving only the rich?
My suggestion: Since the same team that trained Roadster’s staff help with the ZwZ one since you’re one company now. The difference in knowhow and savor faire is tremendous.
Zaatar W Zeit’s new concept, intertwining the best of all worlds into a “Lebanese style” cafe is a big success. You get a Starbucks ambiance, mixed with the Pret A Manger menu and concept, adding to it some unique Lebanese spells… you’ll get a recipe for success: “Zaatar W Zeit”.
I’ll be coming back for a lunch review soon.
Hummus has long been a mainstay among New York’s many, many street food options, but now a new trend has hit town: the manousheh.
While the origin of hummus is a topic that continues to cause controversy between rival nations, the manousheh has indisputably Lebanese roots. Lebanese women would traditionally bake a batch of bread in a communal oven every morning, to provide their families with their daily needs. They would then prepare smaller portions of dough with different toppings for breakfast – the manousheh.
Twenty-nine year old Lebanese-New Yorker Ziyad Hermez has been spreading the manousheh revolution throughout the streets of Manhattan since the summer of 2013, when he opened his pop-up bakery ‘Manousheh NYC’. Situated in the Old Bowery between the Lower East Side, Nolita and in the midst of Soho, it’s a hip part of town.
On the occasion of the World Fair Trade Day and under the patronage of HE Mr Michel Pharaon, Minister of Tourism, Fair Trade Lebanon organized; for the third consecutive year; an awareness day aimed at promoting fair trade principles. The event took place Sunday, May 11, 2014, at Beirut Souks from 11:00am to 6:00pm.
This initiative is part of the global campaign coordinated by Fairtrade International, and relayed by Fair Trade organizations in more than 80 countries. Representatives from Fairtrade International, World Fair Trade Organization and other fair trade organizations (Germany, France, Kenya, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco …) were present to encourage socially responsible consumption in Lebanon.
Fair Trade Lebanon, partner of Fairtrade International, works towards raising the awareness of the Lebanese public to the concept of fair trade: improving the living conditions of Lebanese farmers and producers in the rural villages of Lebanon and assists them in the certification of their products. Its main mission is to offer a viable economic model to farmers and women’s cooperatives by selling their products at a fair price on the local and international markets.
As every true Lebanese knows, the Man’oushé has a reserved place on the country’s breakfast table. But every true Lebanese also knows that this cherished national pie has the ability to be worked into every meal of the day due to its unique simple versatility.
The man’oushé is the cherished national pie of Lebanon. It has a reserved place on the country’s breakfast table and has the unique ability to be worked into every meal of the day due to its simple versatility.
Barbara Abdeni Massaad’s cookbook is dedicated entirely to the art of creating the perfect man’oushé. With over 70 simple recipes, it offers you a way to enjoy these typical pies traditionally baked in street corner bakeries in the comfort of your own home.
Accompanied by Raymond Yazbeck, the author set out on a quest throughout the country in order to find every available recipe that the nation had to offer. On their journey, they fell upon people and stories that inspired Barbara to create a book that is more than just a cookbook, but a way to bring out the flavor of a country through the exploration of its people, through words and image.
Anyone who enjoys the simplicity of good food and appreciates a good story will love this book from cover to cover.